When Mashti bought the store, he told her they bought it for her, which made her laugh. The brothers do happen to have a sister-in-law by the name of Malone, who lives in Cape Cod and is married to their older brother, Iraj. “I didn’t have enough money to change it, so I just added Mashti,” he said. At the time, it was an ice cream store called Mugsy Malone. The soft-spoken Mashti, ice cream genius of the duo, bought the establishment in 1980. The multicultural name is merely a product of the layers of history that accumulate in mini-malls around this city, as owner after owner stamps his personality on the establishment, leaving an erratic record that will confound archeologists of the future when they try to piece together Los Angeles at the turn of the 21st century. “We are not Malones,” says Mehdi, the lively younger brother, and salesman of the joint. The store belongs to two brothers, Mashti, 51, and Mehdi Shirvani, 37, who grew up in Mashhad, a small town in northern Iran. Then there is the Mashti, a $2 ice cream sandwich–a scoop of ice cream squished between two thin wafers, rolled in fresh pistachios. The flavors, which cost $4.95 a pint, have names like Creamy Rosewater, Rosewater Saffron, Ginger Rosewater, Rosewater Sorbet, and Orange Blossom. It heralds an Iranian ice cream parlor, with flavors so exotic they sound like poetry and ingredients that sound as if they must have been harvested from a Persian garden.
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